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Chapter 6

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    Italy,Philiphadalwaysmaintained,isonlyhertrueselfintheheightofthesummer,whenthetouristshavelefther,andhersoulawakesunderthebeamsofaverticalsun.Henowhadeveryopportunityofseeingheratherbest,foritwasnearlythemiddleofAugustbeforehewentouttomeetHarrietintheTirol. Hefoundhissisterinadensecloudfivethousandfeetabovethesea,chilledtothebone,overfed,bored,andnotatallunwillingtobefetchedaway. “Itupsetsone’splansterribly,”sheremarked,asshesqueezedouthersponges,“butobviouslyitismyduty.” “Didmotherexplainitalltoyou?”askedPhilip. “Yes,indeed!Motherhaswrittenmeareallybeautifulletter.Shedescribeshowitwasthatshegraduallygottofeelthatwemustrescuethepoorbabyfromitsterriblesurroundings,howshehastriedbyletter,anditisnogood—nothingbutinsincerecomplimentsandhypocrisycameback.Thenshesays,‘ThereisnothinglikepersonalinfluenceyouandPhilipwillsucceedwhereIhavefailed.’Shesays,too,thatCarolineAbbotthasbeenwonderful.” Philipassented. “Carolinefeelsitaskeenlyalmostasus.Thatisbecausesheknowstheman.Oh,hemustbeloathsome!Goodnessme!I’veforgottentopacktheammonia!...IthasbeenaterriblelessonforCaroline,butIfancyitisherturning-point.Ican’thelplikingtothinkthatoutofallthisevilgoodwillcome.” Philipsawnoprospectofgood,norofbeautyeither.Buttheexpeditionpromisedtobehighlycomic.Hewasnotaversetoitanylongerhewassimplyindifferenttoallinitexceptthehumours.Thesewouldbewonderful.Harriet,workedbyhermotherMrs.Herriton,workedbyMissAbbottGino,workedbyacheque—whatbetterentertainmentcouldhedesire?Therewasnothingtodistracthimthistimehissentimentalityhaddied,sohadhisanxietyforthefamilyhonour.Hemightbeapuppet’spuppet,butheknewexactlythedispositionofthestrings. Theytravelledforthirteenhoursdown-hill,whilstthestreamsbroadenedandthemountainsshrank,andthevegetationchanged,andthepeopleceasedbeinguglyanddrinkingbeer,andbeganinsteadtodrinkwineandtobebeautiful.AndthetrainwhichhadpickedthematsunriseoutofawasteofglaciersandhotelswaswaltzingatsunsetroundthewallsofVerona. “Absurdnonsensetheytalkabouttheheat,”saidPhilip,astheydrovefromthestation.“Supposingwewerehereforpleasure,whatcouldbemorepleasurablethanthis?” “Didyouhear,though,theyareremarkingonthecold?”saidHarrietnervously.“Ishouldneverhavethoughtitcold.” Andontheseconddaytheheatstruckthem,likeahandlaidoverthemouth,justastheywerewalkingtoseethetombofJuliet.Fromthatmomenteverythingwentwrong.TheyfledfromVerona.Harriet’ssketch-bookwasstolen,andthebottleofammoniainhertrunkburstoverherprayer-book,sothatpurplepatchesappearedonallherclothes.Then,asshewasgoingthroughMantuaatfourinthemorning,PhilipmadeherlookoutofthewindowbecauseitwasVirgil’sbirthplace,andasmutflewinhereye,andHarrietwithasmutinhereyewasnotorious.AtBolognatheystoppedtwenty-fourhourstorest.ItwasaFESTA,andchildrenblewbladderwhistlesnightandday.“Whatareligion!”saidHarriet.Thehotelsmelt,twopuppieswereasleeponherbed,andherbedroomwindowlookedintoabelfry,whichsalutedherslumberingformeveryquarterofanhour.Philiplefthiswalking-stick,hissocks,andtheBaedekeratBolognasheonlylefthersponge-bag.NextdaytheycrossedtheApennineswithatrain-sickchildandahotlady,whotoldthemthatnever,neverbeforehadshesweatedsoprofusely.“Foreignersareafilthynation,”saidHarriet.“Idon’tcareiftherearetunnelsopenthewindows.”Heobeyed,andshegotanothersmutinhereye.NordidFlorenceimprovematters.Eating,walking,evenacrosswordwouldbathethembothinboilingwater.Philip,whowasslighterofbuild,andlessconscientious,sufferedless.ButHarriethadneverbeentoFlorence,andbetweenthehoursofeightandelevenshecrawledlikeawoundedcreaturethroughthestreets,andswoonedbeforevariousmasterpiecesofart.ItwasanirritablecouplewhotookticketstoMonteriano. “Singlesorreturns?”saidhe. “Asingleforme,”saidHarrietpeevishly“Ishallnevergetbackalive.” “Sweetcreature!”saidherbrother,suddenlybreakingdown.“HowhelpfulyouwillbewhenwecometoSignorCarella!” “Doyousuppose,”saidHarriet,standingstillamongawhirlofporters—“doyousupposeIamgoingtoenterthatman’shouse?” “Thenwhathaveyoucomefor,pray?Forornament?” “Toseethatyoudoyourduty.” “Oh,thanks!” “Somothertoldme.Forgoodnesssakegettheticketsherecome
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